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Understanding Stabilized Earth Construction: Building with Humidity in Mind

Aaron Harte and Angie Stutte

Graphs and Data

Humidity Control Issue
Humidity levels vary from summer months to winter months, as well as with location. Earth blocks play an integral part in the stabilization of these variations. The way the earth bricks work with humidity is that they absorb cool air and moisture at night and then release that air into the interior during the warmth of the day. As the cool air is released, the warm daytime air is absorbed and stored, which will be released in the coolness of the night. Many "tricks" have been performed by earth block homeowners to enhance this effect. During the night hours, it has been found helpful to leave windows open to promote airflow and to allow the heat from the bricks to be driven out through circulation. If the nighttime air is still warm, one can even use the air conditioner for a short time to load the walls with cool air.

The addition of insulation within the north and east walls is helpful in cold climates while insulating within the west wall would be advantageous in a hot climate. Also, the external walls have a low resistive insulation but a high thermal lag of nine to 11 hours. This provides a "thermal flywheel" effect. If using mud plaster as a permeable finish, the wall will be allowed to absorb and give off airborne moisture more easily than if cement stucco is used as a finish. Wall thicknesses from 12 to 14 inches are considered optimum for thermal mass performance. Also, double wall construction can enhance the insulation factor.

The very same thermal benefits that work to promote earth block construction can also offer a disadvantage to this type of construction. The interior of an earth block home offers a controlled environment due to the time lag of thermal storage. The ability for a mud wall to absorb water from an environment in an area that is too humid and desorb water into an area that is to dry is considered a virtue when speaking of comfort levels within a given space. But the constant presence of water within a wall can have a negative effect, such as cracking and erosion. The very component that allows for such a great thermal lag, clay, also is the primary source of cracking.

Normally, the exterior and interior environments of the building wall differ, one will be hot and the other will be cold. The earth brick offers a medium for the transformation from the exterior to the interior. If the temperatures are right, somewhere in the middle of the wall the temperature will meet the dew point. The dew point can be explained as "the temperature to which air must be cooled to become saturated." Warmer air can hold more water, but as air becomes cooler, the amount of water that is necessary to saturate it is lowered. As the temperature of the air is cooled below the dew point, water is released from the air in the form of water vapor, or condensation. Although this condensation is not enough to actually expand the block, this moisture can settle in existing cracks formed in the drying process and slowly begin to erode the block. The presence of condensation also works to hinder the thermal insulation of the block and must be removed through capillary action. This is the process of the wall breathing, which allows for the removal of this moisture in a relatively quick fashion.

Stabilizers and Their Capabilities

Perlite is a very useful for insulation and is also lightweight. Perlite is commonly used as an aggregate in concrete, which causes the brick to be lighter and fire resistant. By adding perlite to earth blocks, it also helps with the issue of lightness and is a rot, vermin and termite resister. But careful usage is required since too much perlite causes the brick to be unstable and can not carry as heavy a load when used.

Linseed oil is used to preserve concrete surfaces, but can also be used to protect the wear on the earth brick. A coating placed on the exterior wall would prevent destructive water and salts from penetrating into the earth block.

Clay boards can be used as an alternative to gypsum plasterboard which would not only can hold pictures, wallpaper, and paints, but also absorbs odors and keeps the stabilized earth blocks able to breath. Clay board also absorb and diffuse water vapor like the earth bricks do and is a good substitute since the earth walls need to breath.
Haydite allows for airflow through the brick, but also is a water retainer since it’s porous and is clayey mixture. Haydite also is used in cement bricks or cinder blocks as a source to make the bricks lighter, but also serves its purpose for being able to retain water. This helps in earth blocks by allowing the airflow through the earth brick and still being able to retain the water needed for the "thermal flywheel." It is fire resistant and thermally stable for the use in buildings, while it is also significantly lighter than many other aggregates. The air voids in the material since they are spherical help a great deal with the insulation value when being mixed in with other substances.

Bentonite is formed from clay and is used as an effective bond and stabilizer. It is resistant to water and some acidic substances. Bentonite can be used as a thickening gel that is stable under high temperatures and mechanical movements. Bentonite is very sturdy when mixed with clayey soils to produce an effective, strong earth brick.
Slaked lime is pulverized limestone that expands and gets hot when wetted. It breaks down into a fine powder without the use of additional heat. Slaked lime mixes with high clayey soils and makes a stronger brick with that soil. It also decreases moisture movement and permeability.

Portland cement is often used to reinforce earth blocks, but only a small amount should be added to reinforce the brick. Too much cement makes the brick heavy and reduces moisture movement.

Flyash is derived from burning coal and is an additive to concrete and blends easily into mixtures. It increases strength when combined with lime and decreases permeability. It increases durability while at the same time reduces efflorescence and shrinkage.

Different Insulations and Finishes for Earth Walls
For the plain block method of stacking bricks, bricks can be connected using mortar or they can be dry stacked and then cemented with 1/8" of fiberglass bonding cement on both sides. For a double wall construction, the applied insulation can be in form of rigid material or spray on insulation. If using spray on, the insulation must be covered with stucco to protect it. A three-centimeter thick surface coating of clay on both the interior and exterior walls is enough for daily buffering of cooling and heating. The most cost effective wall thickness for the earth blocks is 12 inches for the insulation value. When reinforcing the earth walls, wood (instead of metal) should be used due to the corrosive action of moisture form the soil.

Insulation has many different opportunities in an earth brick home. Sometimes insulation is only on the exterior wall after the waterproofing material is applied. In this case it is to keep the heat generated, collected, and absorbed inside the interior volume. This, however, reduces the summer cooling effect of the walls, but prevents the walls from cooling down to earth temperature. To solve this humidity issue, mechanical air conditioning or dehumidifiers are required. A protective layer of board should be added if insulating the exterior to keep it from contacting the earth wall. Depending on the type of structure (wood, masonry, concrete, or steel) insulation may be placed on the inside of the walls before waterproofing material is applied.

A list of some impermeable materials, semi-permeable materials, and permeable materials can be found on p.266 of Builder’s Guide to Cold Climates by Joseph Lstiburek. These help to understand which materials should be used for the earth wall to be able to absorb and give off moisture while still being able to allow air flow as necessary.

There are two finishes to earth walls, breathable or waterproof finishes. Permeable finishes are less expensive, less durable and allow for the wall to give off and absorb moisture. One such permeable finish, mud plaster, is usually applied in two coats to interior and exterior walls with straw mixed in to reinforce plaster and decrease tendency for cracking. High clay content will result in a poor bond of plaster to the wall. Stabilizers can also be added just like in the earth blocks to stabilize the mixture. Another finish which is more expensive initially and more permanent is stucco which can be used as a low-maintenance finish, but doesn’t accommodate for the breathing of the walls as much as mud plaster. Instead, stucco contains and traps the moisture instead of releasing it at a later time, which leads to problematic issues. When using stucco, it is necessary to using netting in order accommodate for the settling and cracking of the stucco.

Resources and helpful websites:
http://www.buildingscience.com
http://www.greenbuilder.com/sourcebook/EarthGuidlines.html
http://www.natmus.dk/cons/tp/wallbuff/wallbuff.htm
http://askeric.org/Virtual/Lessons/Science/Meterology/MET0007.html
http://renewable.greenhouse.gov.au/home/passive_solar.html
http://www.perlite.com
http://www.flyash.com
http://www.haydite.com
http://www.linanwindow.com/bentonite/organic.htm
http://www.ecoconstruct.com/htmlpdf/clayboard.htm
http://ag.arizona.edu/OALS/ALN/aln47/hardin.html
http://www.fao.org/inpho/vlibrary/s1250e/S1250E06.htm
Gernot, Minke. Earth Construction Handbook. Wit Press. Boston, MS: 2000.
Lstiburek, Joseph. Builder’s Guide to Cold Climates. The Taunton Press. Newton, CT: 2000.